Jan. 13, 2023 at 2:33 pm

Costume designer Dierdre Govan on military style

January 13, 2023no commentNo tags

Sony’s ‘Devotion’ stars Jonathan Majors and Glen Powell as real-life war heroes Jesse Brown and Tom Hudner.

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After the widespread success of the mega-blockbuster Top Gun: Maverick, it feels like we’re at the beginning of an epic war film resurgence. Director J. D. Dillard’s Devotion is a powerful examination of the brotherhood that exists in the military. Inspired by the true story of the nation’s first Black naval pilot, Jesse Brown (played by Jonathan Majors), and his wingman, Tom Hudner (Glen Powell), the film explores the complexity of friendship, race, masculinity and nationalism during the time of the Korean War.

Stream Devotion on Paramount+

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Since debuting in theaters this past November (and now available to stream on Paramount+), we haven’t stopped thinking about the aviator style the film showcases. From utilitarian jumpsuits to bomber jackets, Devotion shows us why military-inspired styles are timeless classics that don’t need updating. We spoke with Devotion costume designer Dierdre Govan about her experience outfitting this incredible film, and how to add a bit of classic aviator style to our own wardrobes.

Recreating true-to-form naval pilot uniforms

As with any period film, costuming Devotion began with detailed fashion history research for Govan and her team, including examining what both civilians and military members alike were wearing in the 1950s—a time when communities were still recovering from the limited resources of World War II. The majority of the film shows Brown and Hudner wearing their naval uniforms, bomber jackets, flight suits and dress whites. Many original versions of these uniforms are not available today, so Govan was tasked with recreating reproductions of the garments.

“I worked with military costumers to fill in the gaps of things that I did not know. All of the details are as close to the original as possible,” Govan says. “We actually found an original life vest and built a replica based off of that for the bomber jackets.” Govan also points out that utility is built into military uniforms, with each pocket serving a specific function—a detail that she included in the costumes for this project.

Speaking about Jonathan Majors, who stars as Jesse Brown in the film, it was important for the actor to walk in Brown’s shoes in order to better understand the role. “When I got his shoes after they were made, I gave [Jonathan] his boots to walk around in,” says Govan. “I gave him his bomber jacket after we aged it, dyed it and distressed it. For a period of time, he was just wearing it to grasp and embody the character. Anything we do in the fitting room is a collaboration between what the character is, what the director’s vision is, what the look of the film is and what I’m doing in costume fittings with them.”

“Just because it’s not a grandiose fashion film, doesn’t mean that military fashion should be overlooked,” says Govan. “It’s replicated several times on the runway. We can go through cycles and then come back again, and I’m pretty sure we may see aviation fashion in the near future.” In recent years, jumpsuits have steadily gained popularity for their one-and-done ease. But while styles have been flamboyant and fashion-forward, designers are also paring down their designs to reflect more classic silhouettes.

►Related: It’s time to add a jumpsuit to your wardrobe. Here are some of the best ones to buy.

To add some aviator style to your own wardrobe, start with the Heritage Flightsuit from Banana Republic. Available in a classic faded khaki, this jumpsuit has all the hallmarks of the classic style—a generous fit, sturdy cotton twill, brass hardware and many utilitarian pockets throughout. Wear it with a solid t-shirt underneath, and feel free to leave a few buttons open to make the look more casual. Add a pair of chukka boots for a fit that is military-inspired without being too on-the-nose. Shop the style in men’s sizes XXS to XL, or for a more affordable option that is still a well-loved workwear staple, check out the Deluxe Blended Long Sleeve Coveralls from Dickies.

$200 at Banana Republic

There’s perhaps no garment more synonymous with aviator style than a bomber jacket. They’re featured prominently throughout Devotion, offering the soldiers an air of regimental formality while still being protective and insulating. While you can pick up an aviator jacket from many brands (some of which sit squarely in fashion territory), we suggest keeping it simple with a classic style like the Leather Aviator Bomber With Detachable Faux Fur from Wilson Leather. Available in smooth brown or black leather options in men’s sizes S to XXL, the jacket features a removable faux shearling collar. This is the perfect jacket to pair with jeans and a t-shirt for an easy day look, or pair it with slacks, a dress shirt and a tie in the evening for a look that’s as dressed up as it is cool and laid back.

$265 at Wilson Leather

Designing Jesse Brown’s at-home style

Rather than exploring the full breadth of post-war fashion, Govan mentions that Dillard had a specific vision for the film. “One thing that was really important when I was studying the look of the film and the story that J. D. wanted to tell is that it was minimal,” says Govan. “Not a lot of bright colors, not a lot of ostentatious detailing. I really leaned on texture and masculine identities and identifiers—leather, canvas, rope—details that felt natural.” This is similar to how Govan designed the civilian wardrobe for Jesse Brown. “If you observe how Jesse Brown stands, there is an aloofness or removal that protects him,” says Govan. “Clothing is a protective layer, both literally and figuratively.” In an emotionally heightened scene in the film where Jesse tells his wife Daisy (played by Christina Jackson) that he is being deployed, subtle details convey ideas of vulnerability. The texture and design details of his shirt and the motifs on Daisy’s dress give a simple power to the characters, allowing the softness of the moment to shine through.

One of the standout style moments in Brown’s civilian wardrobe is a checked wool jacket. Every design element of this jacket was essential to Govan. She explains, “It had the colors of the earth. It had the colors of sand and grass. It had all of these natural earth-tone details, which connected Jesse to where he was born in Mississippi. The red clay of the south is an element that I’m bringing in to show how the color connects to the character.”

The Plaid Knit Shirt Jacket from Express replicates the style in a lightweight shacket version. With a soft plaid of navy and brown, you can throw this on over a tee or button-up shirt as an extra layer of warmth on temperate nights. The Plaid Knit Shirt Jacket is available in men’s sizes XS to XL.

$118 at Express

To commit to mid-century tailoring, pair the jacket with the BR Archives Pleated Pant from Banana Republic. A reissued style based on trousers worn by the British army, the pants feature an adjustable waistband and style-forward pleats. They are available in two khaki shades in men’s regular and long waist sizes 28 to 44. This popular style is guaranteed to sell out, so if you want them, be sure to shop now.

$120 at Banana Republic

To complete the look, try on a pair of the pilot-loved classic: Ray-Ban 58mm Polarized Aviator Sunglasses. The sunglasses are made in the traditional teardrop shape and are available in five different lens and frame colors. The slightly oversized profile is contemporary and stylish, while the design is almost identical to the styles the brand has been making since 1937.

$213 at Nordstrom

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Costume designer Dierdre Govan on military style

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